Wednesday, July 28, 2010

France: Wedding in Champagne

The best meal I had in France was at a wedding held in a chateau in an area called Villeneuve St Germain, near a not-so-small (but still quite small) town called Soissons in the Champagne region. It was a beautiful place.

The 14th century church where the solemnization was held. It was even prettier on the inside, with light streaming through the stained glass windows.

After the ceremony, there was a cocktail reception held in the grounds of the chateau while the bride and groom mingled and chatted and took photos with their guests.

I took photos of the food.

The groom's family made all the catering arrangements. They had the food catered by a local restaurant, which the champagne was from a smaller local producer - the name escapes me now, but it was really enjoyable - crisp on the palate, very smooth finish yet not too dry. I wish I had bought a few bottles back.

Too much champagne

We had at least 4 glasses each before dinner - on an empty stomach. This being a clear picture and totally in focus, was of course, the first and not the fourth glass.

Various canapes were served to go with the champagne
Pate with bread

Proscuitto with rockmelon

Open sandwiches with various fillings

Prawns (very good) and tuna (not so good)

Shrimp (grey, ugly and not so good) and crab (very yummy)

Prawns with shrimp mousse...rather pretty but too prawny.

Various pastries and vol-au-vents - the one with escargot and herb butter was pretty yummy.

The dining hall all set for the banquet
First course: La Cassolette de Saint-Jacques au Noilly sur Fondue de Poireaux. The only thing I understood out of this entire name was Saint Jacques and I had no idea who he was until my friend explained the connection with the scallop shells. But back to the scallops - they were so perfectly cooked; the seared exterior balanced by an almost-cooked interior of sweet, succulent flesh. The sauce was a mild creamy one with leek which was not too rich, since the scallop juices had come out nicely.
Second course: Grenadin de Veau aux Champignons de Saison Mousseline de Celeri et Pommes Fondantes. This was veal with seasonal mushrooms, plus something that was similar to couscous, and a cheesy potato rosti-like cake. The veal was stunningly, amazingly tender, and the sauce with morels was out of this world.

After that came the cheese platter. It was sad that we didn't know how to specify the cheeses we wanted...the only French cheese words we knew were brie and camembert. So that was what we got. But they were amazing.

Seated too far away to even point. We had to yell our orders to the dragon lady across the table.

The dessert was truly, truly stunning....."Gratin des Fruites Rouges au Sabayon de Champagne".....raspberries and strawberries with a champagne sauce, vanilla ice cream and a honey-covered wafer. It was the best dessert we had during the whole trip. The sauce was rich, sweet yet light enough to be lapped up.

Breakfast the morning after was a relatively simple affair.

Brioche bread - soft and fluffy

Croissants and pain au chocolate - as good as those found in any pastry shop

Fresh summer fruits

The yogurt came in a ceramic jar that we took home and used as a tealight holder

And after breakfast came lunch with yet more....champagne.

Cold cuts and salad and bread. Perfect lunch fare for a hot sunny day

Sunday, July 18, 2010

Paris: L'Ecailler Du Bistrot

The second most memorable meal we had during our trip was at L'Ecailler Du Bistrot (will blog about the most memorable one later). Ecailler is the French word for "scale", and this place was a real seafood paradise. Their menu features oysters (huitres), scallops (coquillages or St Jacque - named such appparently because the Catholic saint St Jacque is featured holding 2 scallop shells), homard (lobster), poisson (fish - but we already knew that from our A maths classes) and other types of seafood. But top on the list is oysters - they have a ton of different types from all over France like Normandy and Brittany, and it's fairly mind-boggling trying to figure out which is which.


The restaurant as viewed from the street
As you walk in, there's someone at the front shucking oysters and de-shelling the other shellfish. He seemed very amused that I wanted to photograph him.

Hard at work.

Not a very impressive window display, but that was fine by me.

The herbed butter and bread was very nice. What I loved about most of the French restaurants that we went to was the abundant supply of good crusty bread, which was automatically topped up without question.


As there were 4 of us, we decided to order 2 dinner set menus (which comprised of 12 oysters, a half-lobster and a dessert for 46 Euros) and a seafood platter (Plateaux de Fruits de Mer) for 2 people at 67 Euros. Our tools for the job at hand.

We wanted a wine to go with our meal....settled on a You Are So Bubbly rose for 24 Euros a bottle. I really liked it because it looked so pink and pretty in the glass. Ok it tasted pretty good too...not too dry.

Our seafood platter arrived and we went absolutely insane taking photos of it from every angle. There were prawns, clams, cockles, snails, shrimp, crab and oysters, oysters and more oysters.

Close ups of the various fruits de la mer

They gave us 2 types of oysters; cupped and flat. I preferred the taste of the cupped ones...I suppose I'm more used to the cupped type which is commonly found in Australia. I found the flat ones slightly more fishy tasting.

Snails....nice and chewy.

I couldn't quite get used to the taste of raw clam though

After we managed to finish the seafood platter, we had the main course of a half blue lobster with butter sauce. The butter sauce was really rich, thick, tasty, sinful and mindblowingly good, while the lobster flesh was firm, succulent and extremely flavourful. We cleaned up every last bit using the bread to mop up the sauce.

After dinner, our friendly English-speaking waiter started chatting with us, and asked if we wanted to see the live blue lobster. Of course we said yes. So he ducked into the kitchen and came out with a live lobster which was frantically flapping its tail and waving its claws. No wonder it was so yummy....the lobsters are killed and cooked according to demand. Apparently the tail bit (where he's pointing) is really sharp.

Our dessert of baked apple with caramel and ice cream was a perfect ending to a perfect meal.

L'Ecailler Du Bistrot
22 rue Paul Bert
75011 Paris
Tel: 01 43 72 76 77 (Reservations necessary, ask for Eduard)
Open from 12-2.30pm, 7.30-11pm Tuesday to Saturday
Closed Sunday and Monday
Metro: Either the Faidherbe Chaligny station (purple line) and the Rue des Boulets station (green line)


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