Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Beijing: Maison Boulud

On one of my recent work trips to Beijing, a colleague and I managed to squeeze in some time to try out Maison Boulud. Located in Qianmen, it's fairly near Tiananmen Square but dificult to get to by car because of restricted turning along JianGuoMenWai/ChangAn Jie. The restaurant is located in ChienMen 23, the former US Embassy complex consisting of a mix of historic/new buildings around a central open space.

The entrance to the complex along QianMen DongDaJie.


The restaurant is located at the far end, housed in a building with an old facade but completely new interiors.
We were seated in the far end of the restaurant, and because it was relatively empty at 12 noon, I was quite surprised. After a while, I realised we were right next to the serving station, and the clatter of cutlery, opening and closing of drawers and conversation between serving staff got a bit too much. So I asked for a seat change. Points deducted here.


I suppose it's also the norm to be asked whether still, sparking or mineral water is preferred - and this being China, tap was definitely not an option. So we went for still - at RMB 90 (S$16), Evian certainly didn't come cheap. More points deducted.
The amuse bouche consisted of jellied ham with gherkin in a shot glass, and salmon and cucumber topped with dill. Nothing terribly exciting here.
My friend and I had the summer lunch menu for RMB188 (S$38) per person - apparently they change the menu every 2 weeks. I had the cuttlefish and chick pea salad with basil and lemon with a yogurt and cumin dressing. The cuttlefish was battered and lightly fried, and was very tender, while the cumin, basil and chickpeas were a pretty good combination.

My friend had the DB (I suppose it stands for Daniel Boulud) Caesar Salad with romaine lettuce, anchovies, avocado topped with Parmesan and croutons. Ordinary but enjoyable.
For her main course, my friend had the bread-crusted snapper with a sauce consisting of stewed mussels, tomato and fennel. The fish was very nicely done - crusty on the outside, soft and firm on the inside. Unfortunately the sauce turned out to be something that we could have had at Pasta Mania, and it left us wondering what the chef was trying to do.
I had the DB Burger, which consisted of minced sirloin with braised short ribs and foie gras served with fries. This came with a RMB35 (S$7) supplement.
This was an EXCELLENT burger, and done to perfection.
The meat mix of minced sirloin and braised short rib added texture and flavour to the patty


Fries with parsely, spring onions and garlic, which were very nicely done - crispy on the outside, hot and fluffy on the inside. Top marks!

There were 2 dessert choices: My friend had the black forest consisting of brandied cherry biscuit, chocolate shavings and cherry sorbet. The cherry sorbet was slightly tangy, and went quite well with the cherry biscuit (which was more like a cake). This was quite pleasant.
I had the Raspberry and Lychee, which was raspberry chiboust(??), caramelised puff pastry and lychee sorbet.
This was also quite pleasant, but I thought the pastry could have been served a bit warmer, since it was quite dry and flaky.
Maison Boulud is meant to be fine French dining in China at what I suppose must be its best, but there were so many silly serving flaws - the waitress banging into the bottle of Evian, seating us (initially) at a terrible table, and not being attentive enough to the needs of the diners. It was also sad that tea and coffee were not part of the lunch set - these cost us RMB50 (S$10) and 45 (S$9) respectively.

At one point, the next course arrived before we were done with our earlier course, which shows a huge problem with timing and how the staff in the dining hall communicate with those in the kitchen. In my view, a large part of the fine dining experience is the service, and if that is not properly done, I can easily spend my money at another equally-good-or-equally-expensive place.

Bottom line: Impressive location and decent food, but let down by poor service.
Final price for 2 people including taxes = RMB685 = S$137.
Lunch: Mon to Fri from 11.30am-2.00pm
Dinner: 7 days from 6-10pm
Address: Chien Men 23, Qianmen Dongdajie (前门东大街)

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